(recipe from the book Local Flavors used with permission of the author, Deborah Madison)

Eat these warm savory custards right out of their ramekins for lunch or supper. You can make this leaving the texture of the leeks and sorrel intact or puree it and make it smooth. It’s good both ways.

4 to 6 thin leeks or scallions
2½ tablespoons unsalted butter
4 ounce bunch sorrel
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 cup half-and-half or whole milk
3 market eggs
freshly ground pepper
2 ounces fresh goat cheese

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

1. Thinly slice, then chop the white parts of the leeks, going into the pale part of the greens a short way. You should have about 1 cup. Rinse them well. Melt the butter in an 8-inch skillet. Use some of it to brush four ½ cup ramekins, then add the leeks to the skillet. Add ¼ cup water or white wine and cook gently over medium-low heat until softened, about 12 minutes.
2. Strip the sorrel leaves off the stems; wash and finely chop them. Add them to the pan with the leeks, sprinkle with salt, and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the half-and-half and heat until warm but not boiling.
3. Beat the eggs well, then stir in the sorrel mixture. Season with pepper and crumble in the cheese. If you want smooth custard, puree using short pulses. Don’t over mix or it will be too foamy on top.
4. Divide among the ramekins, place in a baking pan and surround with a hot water bath. Bake until the custards are set and a knife inserted comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Set the ramekins on small plates and serve with buttered toast.